According to my manual the turbo chargers are removable

with the engine still in the car. is this possable?????

As we in the UK all understand the unit has to come out! for

TC removal.........Granted the manual is the LHD USA manual

I know Stevo's done it, with a little help from a mate with girls hand's!!!

me and me mate did the near side twice

******* of a job but possible

 

steve

Is sounds so easy in the book!!!!!!!

Quote

 

"Bend back nut retaining plate

with large screwdriver and remove turbo charger bolts.

remove turbocharger" ha ha ha ha!!!!!!

yep peice of pi$$$..

steve

Done the n/s as well with the engine in.

 

Definetly get someone with wee hands and a welder to make up that wee special curvy spanner to get at the rear inside turbo bolt. Ooohhh!! :(

 

Alan......

we used a socket head spanner hany bit of kit

 

steve

But wot about the other side????

So what about the o/s then guys??

marcus is the kid for that i think

 

steve

Good thinking mate

he could crawl up the zaust pipe and do all work internally

 

steve

he could crawl up the zaust pipe and do all work internally

 

steve

 

 

Not nice mate!!

Thinks me needs a victorian chimney sweep then :rofl:

Had a good look at the o/s when I was under.

Apart from the servo being a nuisance, it doesnt look any more difficult than the n/s. But, I wouldnt like to say for sure. As we all know the n/s can be done, give the o/s a try 1st to see how it goes.

 

Alan.....

Engine out is best:D

 

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=21802&highlight=manifold+problems

o/s looked near on impossible to me

 

steve

o/s looked near on impossible to me

 

steve

 

Yeah, but so does the n/s the 1st time you look at it ! :rolleyes:

 

Whats life without a challenge ??? The worst that can happen is you wait a week to let your knuckles heal then remove the engine ? :)

 

Then put a smart thread on hear telling every body 1 way or another.

 

Alan.......

Engine out is best:D

 

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=21802&highlight=manifold+problems

 

agree with you Iain, easier to remove engine every time

tis easier with the battry tray out but not that bad of a job getting the turbo bolt securing flaps off is a nightmare but possible

There's one major over-riding factor to all the above. Putting it back together correctly. Everything must be torqued to the correct specs and with limitted room, this is near enough impossible...

I've done both sides twice now - the trick to the o/s is to remove the servo* and loosen the brake lines where they go through the wing that gives enough room to manover. From memory, and in no particular order, don't do what the manual says and remove the downpipes (even if you get them off the odds are you'll break at least one stud) - it's much easier to unbolt from where the precats meet the turbo. When re-fitting the o/s, fit the inlet pipe to the turbo before replacing as you'll never reach the bolts once it's fitted.) - that's why you need the extra space. As someone's already said you'll need to butcher a spanner to reach one of the n/s nuts. For the others I found 2 long thin 1/4 inch extensions, the kind that allow a degree of movement, were needed to reach them from underneath (+ bluetack and a ring spaner to get them back on!).

The only other thing I can remember is that you'll never get the heat shields off without shearing the bolts and they're almost impossible to refit anyway so just scrap them!

 

*take the driver's seat out for this - it's only 4 bolts and saves hangin' upside down to reach the nuts for the servo.

 

Have fun and remember to have lot's of elastoplast handy!

I've done both sides twice now - the trick to the o/s is to remove the servo* and loosen the brake lines where they go through the wing that gives enough room to manover. From memory, and in no particular order, don't do what the manual says and remove the downpipes (even if you get them off the odds are you'll break at least one stud) - it's much easier to unbolt from where the precats meet the turbo. When re-fitting the o/s, fit the inlet pipe to the turbo before replacing as you'll never reach the bolts once it's fitted.) - that's why you need the extra space. As someone's already said you'll need to butcher a spanner to reach one of the n/s nuts. For the others I found 2 long thin 1/4 inch extensions, the kind that allow a degree of movement, were needed to reach them from underneath (+ bluetack and a ring spaner to get them back on!).

The only other thing I can remember is that you'll never get the heat shields off without shearing the bolts and they're almost impossible to refit anyway so just scrap them!

 

*take the driver's seat out for this - it's only 4 bolts and saves hangin' upside down to reach the nuts for the servo.

 

Have fun and remember to have lot's of elastoplast handy!

 

At the end of the day, it is always better to remove the engine, as it lets you do other bits and pieces while its out. But not everybody has the facilities or premises etc to do this. If you are on a budget, by the time you have bought your turbos it may be more convenient for you to wrestle them out and re-fit them up your drive where you only need a decent jack and axle stands, and a few spare days. Oh, and the plasters !! ;) If you dont have the place or the engine lift, it is going to cost.

 

Each and every one to their own I suppose. That is what makes this club so good. We all have our opinions, but always try to help out as the end result is to get a sick Zed up and running !! :D

 

My tuppence worth anyways..

 

Alan......

Absolutely Alan, but you've just reminded me of something ;) That tight budget will be ****ed if you don't get the oil feeds tight to your brand new turbos and have to replace them in under 1k miles ;)

Absolutely Alan, but you've just reminded me of something ;) That tight budget will be ****ed if you don't get the oil feeds tight to your brand new turbos and have to replace them in under 1k miles ;)

 

Very true,if your budget won't allow you to remove the engine and do any other jobs while it is out then you own the wrong car IMHO.Sell up and buy a Ford;)

Very true,if your budget won't allow you to remove the engine and do any other jobs while it is out then you own the wrong car IMHO.Sell up and buy a Ford;)

 

Steady on mate, That's a bit harsh!!!!