I heard it's bad to jack up my 300 under the seam at the bottom of the bodywork. Surely as it's the standard the method with the standard jack it can't do it any harm?

 

Can anyone tell me (without too many technical words) how it's best to jack the car up?

 

I could get a puncture anytime and I'll need my tyres changing soon and I don't want the tyre people to do it wrong either.

 

Thanks

Right; I looked at some other threads about this.

I think what I want to know is:

 

1) is it safe to use the standard jack and if so, how?

 

2) what should I ask them / tell them when I take it into a garge for tyres or whatever and they have to take the wheels off?

 

:hyper:

1) yes as per manual but I would only use it for a wheel change if I had to. For working its much faster and prolly safer to use a trolley jack and axle stands.

2) ask them not to simply use a trolley jack on the sill seams as they will flatten them. Instead use the trolley jack underneath on the main chassis beams. Anyone with sense will know where to do it. At the rear the trolley jack can go under the diff.

Right; I looked at some other threads about this.

I think what I want to know is:

 

1) is it safe to use the standard jack and if so, how?

 

2) what should I ask them / tell them when I take it into a garge for tyres or whatever and they have to take the wheels off?

 

:hyper:

 

The standard jack is intended for wheel changes and that's it - in other words one wheel slightly off the ground and no-one under the car. I'm not even sure I'd like to jack the car up high enough for axle stands using the standard jack - the base of the jack isn't very wide!

 

I have to use the standard jack to take the weight off the suspension and get the car high enough to slide the trolley jack in...

 

I use the jack on the middle of the front suspension crossmember - "garage jack point" in the diagram. Saves twisting the car by jacking just one side up.

 

Stands should go on the chassis beams - the hardest point on these is just before they curve up into the engine bay. Further back they're a bit soft. (See circles in diagram.)

 

If you're taking it into the garage they'll likely have a lift anyway... print this off and take it in with you!

 

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=4354

 

BTW when doing an oil change you'll get more out if you lower the car again with the drain plug off but the catch pan still in place. BTW2 you need to give the car a good wobble when it's on the stands before you put yer arm under it, because you WILL be hanging off the drain plug, hammering spanners, using scaffold poles, etc to undo the bugger. :D

 

Lucky I'm breaking mine because when I drained the oil I accidentally dropped the plug in the oil can. Don't fancy fishing that out! :x: :nelson:

 

Is there a jacking the car up FAQ yet?

As mentioned, its fine to jack up there, but only for wheel changes really. The real problem is that so many people just whack the jack on, and instead of going around the sill and doing it properly, they jack up straight on the lower part of it and bends / breaks the skin, then weather gets into it and it starts to break up and peal back, then your whole sill starts rotting.

 

It’s not very safe to do work under as its just not stable enough, I always jack the car up with a proper trolley jack from one of the supporting bars underneath the car (not sure the proper name the ones that run from front to back). I always put an axel stand under it too.

 

If your cars anything like mine, you need to use the standard jack anyway to start, because my car is too low to fit a normal jack under, so it’s a real pain in the arse, a three stage process just to jack the fooking thing up from one corner!

I should really read posts before posting zevans was spot on, and yes the bar gets softer toward the back :rolleyes: