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Here's the problem:

 

compression.jpg

 

So i took the Plenum off.....:

 

eng1.jpg

 

Then i took the rocker covers off:

 

eng2.jpg

 

Jeff (zworld) told me to check for gaps between the lifters and the cams, checked out fine, so now its decision time, what should i do next? Anything too look for? Or should i jusy get a new engine from Jeff?

 

:cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry:

Featured Replies

LOL!! its no good just ripping off bits if you dont know what youre looking at!!

 

did you get a cyl leakage test done??

 

if you insist on keep pulling bits off then next step is heads off. like i said, its prob valves not seating. but until you get a leak test done its just a guess ;)

btw.................................what were you hoping to see?????? :confused:

erm, so if you had gaps between the cams & lifters then what would you have done?? LOL!

 

cos it certainly wouldnt have given low compressions. in fact it would prevent it!! it would have rattled but thats about it!! ;)

  • Author

So what do you suggest i look for?

 

This can be put back together, so that is not the issue here, i was merely looking for visual signs of damage / things not seating correctly / oil being present / etc, etc... as advised...

 

The fact that the two banks are different colours warrants my efforts worthwhile, this indicates that head on the right is either newer / has been reworked or repaired etc.. wonder why. What do you think the reason is?

I was just about to say the left side looks different color to the right, then I noticed you mentioned it anyway.

 

Thats not right, both sides should be same as.

 

But seeing as I dont know the answer I will just shut up and go away

I would go with paul on this and say a cylinder leak test (again :)) which I would imagine you could still do as is, but it means you have to get a kit to your house

Maybe wrong here,but the right side looks like it could be suffering from oil starvation, :(

 

Tony

I think a point that I should add is that the left bank of the plenum gets warm whilst the right bank remains cold until to turn the key off and the heat transfers across!

 

That may indicate that the problem lays on the left side as the head is not being kept cool.

I think a point that I should add is that the left bank of the plenum gets warm whilst the right bank remains cold until to turn the key off and the heat transfers across!

 

That may indicate that the problem lays on the left side as the head is not being kept cool.

 

mmmmmmmmm,but how would that relate to probs with the right bank,ie low comp :confused:

Sorry not to be a great help but your PTU is on upside down. ;)

  • Author

Jeeeez, there is always one.... :rofl:

 

That just to temporarily hold it in place... honest guv... ummm... i mean... it runs cooler that way... :slap: :rofl:

  • Author

To be frank (and like most other Z owners i'm guessing) i just want a fooking car that runs smoothly, all this dicking about is too depressing for me. A straight engine swap is fast, relatively cheap, and no hassles, FOR ME, and it will cure a lot of OTHER problems i'm having with the engine. Oh and a 4 month guarantee to boot... peace of mind counts for a lot these days.

 

You guys that rebuild your engines yourself...i couldnt wait that long... i want to enjoy my car with no wrinkles or hair loss due to waiting for parts, you guys are crazy... i guess i just have no patience, someone slap me :slap:

To be frank (and like most other Z owners i'm guessing) i just want a fooking car that runs smoothly, all this dicking about is too depressing for me. A straight engine swap is fast, relatively cheap, and no hassles, FOR ME, and it will cure a lot of OTHER problems i'm having with the engine. Oh and a 4 month guarantee to boot... peace of mind counts for a lot these days.

 

You guys that rebuild your engines yourself...i couldnt wait that long... i want to enjoy my car with no wrinkles or hair loss due to waiting for parts, you guys are crazy... i guess i just have no patience, someone slap me :slap:

 

Know what you mean,had same probs as you some time back,got a low miler put in,heaven now,but looking back would of saved myself money and time taking it up to Andy Duff to sort/rebuild,could be worth you ringing him,

 

Tony

I can confirm that our man John is a very impatient bugger.

Jeeeez, there is always one.... :rofl:

 

That just to temporarily hold it in place... honest guv... ummm... i mean... it runs cooler that way... :slap: :rofl:

 

:rofl: I hope that IS a joke!

Why did they put a heatsink and cooling fins on one side I wonder...? :confused:

 

I'm stunned :eek:

If you now take the heads off and the bottom end, you can remove all the internals so it will be much lighter to dispose of at the local tip...

 

You guys that rebuild your engines yourself...i couldnt wait that long... i want to enjoy my car with no wrinkles or hair loss due to waiting for parts, you guys are crazy... i guess i just have no patience, someone slap me :slap:

 

An engine rebuild does not have to take a long time , mine should be back in the car in a few weeks , if all goes well it will have only taken 3 weeks from start to finish

  • Author

OK, putting it all back together now, John Nobles Motorsport are gonna do a leakage test on for £38....bargain, got it in for saturday.

 

Now only thing is, i tok the plenum off, but there was no gasket, only Instant Gasket Sealant, which is shredded, do i need a new gasket for the plenum, if i dont have one will this affect the leakage test? I was told it wouldnt...but i'm just checking with you guys!

By rights you should put a gasket on it, to take the irregulkarities out of the mating surfaces. My move would be either make a gasket out of thick card (corn flake box is my weapon of choice) or use a proprietary gasket sealant. This is not a pressure joint, it is just to stop spurious air leaks.

no, it wont make any difference to the leak test. its all got to come off again anyway ;)

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