CAR STALLS WHEN GEAR IS ENGAGED

Posted July 11Jul 11

Hello all,

I have a very strange issue with my car. I own a z32 NA with auto gearbox. The other day we found the battery dead for some reason. Never got to find out why and how. Anyway, after having charged the battery, we put it back in the car and faced this strange issue... when engaging any gear the car stalls. A friend told me to pump the gas paddle hard a couple of times and then try. It worked but the problem was back. Everything seems fine and no one seems to be able to figure out the problem. If you pump the gas paddle, it will engage but if you have to move the gears, say from drive to reverse or idle it in neutral and then engage again, the problem comes back.

Anyone here faced this problem and is able to guide me please, shall appreciate any help....

Start new topic

July 11Jul 11

The only thing I can think of is a vacuum leak.

2002 Porsche C2 996 3.6
1991 Nissan 300zx TT Project

1995 Nissan 300zx TT Crashed 🥲

1997 Jaguar XK8 Scraped ☹️

July 11Jul 11

You have probably disturbed the engjne loom which has corroded connections.The idle valve is near the battery & it is controlled by the ecu.If the connection is green it will not function correctly.It should be a yellow plug behind the plenum on the battery side.

https://www.300zx-owners.club/forums/topic/164548-car-stalls-when-gear-is-engaged/

Followers

Go to topic listing

No registered users viewing this page.

No registered users viewing this page.

Hello from the France

Hello
Just passing through the forum, I'm taking this opportunity to post some new information.
I've still owned my Z since 2018, my brother also owned a Z32 in the meantime.
My Z has become my company logo.
Lots of finishing work done, Brembo 350z front brakes and Akebono 370z rear brakes, Boost Controller Blitz.
Next installation of a second MAF and more finishing to be done.

By sebZman · 11 hours ago11 hr
Happy Birthday cybernet

A belated happy birthday Steve - hope you had a good one mate!

By RichardS · Yesterday at 19:281 day
ADAMZX's OEM+ 2000spec Version R Replica Conversion & Rebuild Project Build Thread

PARTS ACQUIRED DURING THE MONTH OF JANUARY 2025
The last item to talk about for this months blog updates, is to do with a new part acquisition I was able to acquire all the way from Japan and though this new part is not a super rare optional part that I typically am on the look out for, it was a part that I know is now discontinued brand new from Nissan Japan and finding a used unit out in the wild online was going to be the next best way for me to acquire it for my 300ZX build project.
Used Intercooler Duct Outer Bracket (Nissan P/N: 14486-VP100)

https://i.postimg.cc/h4w57Jj5/Intercooler-Mounting-Bracket-Fabrication-2024.png
https://i.postimg.cc/KvMs7Z3n/New-custom-made-bracket-1.jpg
I then coated the custom made steel bracket in a high gloss chassis paint to protect it from rusting in the future.
https://i.postimg.cc/CLq6CFns/Mounting-Bracket-After-Paint-2.jpg
I installed the bracket onto the car during the final assembly process in October and the custom made bracket worked great to allow me to install the 2000spec intercooler ducting's onto the front section of the car.
https://i.postimg.cc/jd7k6snh/7-During-Assembly-Process-LH-Intercooler-ducting-Mounts-2-Installed.jpg
Fast forward 3 months later and while I was searching yahoo auctions looking for rare and optional parts to buy, I came across this auction for a single 2000spec intercooler ducting along with the 2 side brackets that the ducting uses to attach to the front frame of the car as well.
https://i.postimg.cc/vHVS7QxV/Used-intercooler-Ducting-For-Sale-in-Japan.jpg
At a price of only 3,000 yen which at the time was roughly $33 AUD, not only would I be getting the OEM bracket I needed but I would also get a spare LH intercooler duct, a spare inner bracket and spare OEM hardware which for me was a no brainer and so I emailed my contact in Japan and organised to purchased the group of items off of Yahoo auctions through him and it has taken about a month or so for the parts to finally arrive to me here in Australia.
https://i.postimg.cc/YCNnVb34/Used-Set-Intercooler-Duct-and-Brackets-Arrived-From-Japan-1.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/tg2rRJ89/Used-Set-Intercooler-Duct-and-Brackets-Arrived-From-Japan-2.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/W3z5djPh/Used-Set-Intercooler-Duct-and-Brackets-Arrived-From-Japan-3.jpg
As much as I would have loved to just install the new replacement bracket onto the car, with all of the brake system and transmission issues the car has right now, I have decided to wait until the car is back to being mechanical functional once again and then when I have the time to install a few miscellaneous parts on the car, I'll do the installation process of the replacement bracket then.

By DJ_Party_Favor · Yesterday at 11:001 day
ADAMZX's OEM+ 2000spec Version R Replica Conversion & Rebuild Project Build Thread

REPLACING MY LEAKING POWER STEERING RACK
Now its time to talk about that power steering fluid leak which my Dad discovered during the installation process of the pair of twin turbo front brake calipers. From what my Dad told me about the leak, was that it was pretty bad and when he turned the steering wheel full lock to either side of the car depending upon whichever caliper he was trying to install. He found a pool of power steering fluid on the garage floor directly under the right hand side rack end boot and he also stated that the amount of fluid coming out of the boot at the time was so much, that he reckons that if I was to have driven the car with the leak present, I would have very quickly leaked out all of the power steering fluid out of the system within several minutes and if that would have happened it would have cause all kinds of damage to the hydraulic steering pump and steering rack shortly after would and so obliviously we needed to address this power steering fluid leak as soon as possible.
I will admit to you all, that this isn't just some random power steering fluid leak that just so happen to occur at this particular point in time. In fact this steering fluid leak has been an ongoing fluid leak on my car since I discovered it back in 2021, where I initially spotted the leak during a chassis inspection of he undercarriage of the car and though the leak really wasn't that bad when I discovered it. As you can see in the below photo, the rack end boot was beginning to become covered in power steering fluid but their were no signs of actually fluid dripping out from the boot at that time.

As you would expect the steering fluid leak on the steering rack has been gradually getting worse as the years have past by and that leads us up to present day where the leak has now become so bad that if I didn't address it now, I run the risk of damaging several components in the steering system if the hydraulic part of the system was to run out of fluid completely.
https://i.postimg.cc/VLcSQkcL/Old-leaking-Power-Steering-Rack.jpg
The good news is that anticipating this was going to eventually happen to my car, I managed to found and purchased a reasonably price used power steering rack off of eBay that looked in decent enough condition and had no signs of leaking rack end boots on it. The replacement rack has been sitting in storage since I received it, waiting for the moment such as right now, when I was going to need to use it to replace my original leaking power steering rack.
My Dad knowing that I was still too busy to have enough free time on my hands to get the swap over of the power steering racks done in a quick enough timeframe, he again offered to help me to do the work needed to swap over the 2 steering racks. This meant that I wouldn't get the chance to see the removal and installation process of the steering rack components onto my car, which would have allowed me to further increase my mechanical knowledge and understanding during the process.
Still having my Dad be able to go through the whole removal and installation of the 2 power steering rack's for me was going to not just speed up the repair of this power steering fluid leak situation but once it was done, I could then my attention back to focusing on continuing to pull apart more brake components to hopefully find the cause of my spongy brake pedal problem much sooner then if I was to have to try and fix this fluid leak myself.
Once I got home from work later that afternoon, I was then able to see my Dad's handy work with the newly installed used replacement steering rack now in place onto the front cross member of the car and finally there are no leaks to be seen coming from anywhere on the steering rack.
https://i.postimg.cc/MTTSB6f1/New-Power-Steering-Rack-Installed-1.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/wBFz3yM7/New-Power-Steering-Rack-Installed-2.jpg
To finish off this blog, the plans I have for my original leaking power steering rack will be a full teardown of the rack and then I will learning how to and going through a full rebuild of the unit myself. The rebuilt steering rack will then be put away into storage so that it can be used in the future as a backup replacement for this replacement used steering rack. I predicate that in the future parts like these will become very hard to find and also very expensive to replace and I prefer to have a spare brand new like condition unit sitting in storage now so that I don't have to worry about finding one in the future.

By DJ_Party_Favor · Yesterday at 10:581 day
ADAMZX's OEM+ 2000spec Version R Replica Conversion & Rebuild Project Build Thread

DISMANTLING OF MY ORIGINAL BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER
After failing every attempt so far to fix my car's current spongy brake pedal feel problem over the last 2 months or so, It was time for me to take a big step back on further diagnosing the problem and instead I now wanted to alter my focus on trying to increase my mechanical experience, knowledge and understanding of the individual components within the braking system. I hope that this exploratory new process I am about to undertake, will eventually lead me to find the problem part that has been causing me to be unable to bleed all of the air out of my braking system.
Targeting a single mechanical part at a time, I want to learn how to disassemble each part down to its most basic components as much as I can, from there figure out and learn how that specific mechanical part functions inside and out. Once I understand how that part works, I can then know if the part is faulty and how that part can be repaired in the future. Once I have solved the spongy brake pedal problem using this new learning experience, I can then expand my learning process to include other systems on the car such as the power steering system and maybe some electrical components as well.
Starting off this new process, will me the disassembly of my original factory brake master cylinder which was present on my car when I brought it back in 2006 and then I replaced it with a 2000spec later model variant in 2011. The original BMC was then reinstalled back onto the car during the last time I attempted to do a brake caliper and rotor change on my car back in 2017 where my Dad assumed that the later model BMC was faulty. Dismantling this BMC and inspecting the 2 internal pistons and the bore of the cylinder will help me to verify whether or not this brake master cylinder is either good or bad.

https://i.postimg.cc/jjCNP71t/1-Before-Photo-2.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/YSjgYWPt/1-Before-Photo-3.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/MGXRVQL2/1-Before-Photo-4.jpg
The first step is to remove the primary and secondary pistons found inside the master cylinder. I mounted my BMC into a vice and then removed the snap ring cover cap found at the end of the bore section on the cylinder.
https://i.postimg.cc/N0VX40hy/2b-Piston-Removal-Rear-Cover-Plate-Removal-using-Pick.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/nL5mkL8K/2c-Piston-Removal-Rear-Cover-Plate-Removed.jpg
Using a pick, I gently pried on the lip of the primary piston located at the end of the bore until it had come out far enough, so that I could pull the piston out by hand the rest of the way.
https://i.postimg.cc/cJj3mJqQ/2d-Piston-Removal-Rear-Piston-Removal-Using-Pick.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/nrfQywhs/3b-Front-Piston-After-Removal.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/xCzzFSn1/3b-Front-Piston-After-Removal-Close-Up.jpg
One down and one to go but the secondary piston was going to require a little bit more effort from me to be able to remove it as it was still located deep down inside the bore of the master cylinder and there was no way I was going to be able to pry it out using the same method I had done for the primary piston. I initially tried using a magnetic pickup tool to try and connect to and pull the piston out from the bore of the cylinder but no matter what I did, the magnetic on the pickup tool just wasn't strong enough to be able to hold onto back end of the piston with enough force to allow me to pull the piston out from inside the master cylinder.
So using the information I had researched on several YouTube videos about how to disassemble a brake master cylinder, I switched over to using compressed air to try and push the secondary piston out of the bore of the cylinder.
https://i.postimg.cc/g05hD09t/2f-Piston-Removal-Front-Piston-Removal-Using-Blow-Gun-From-Compressor.jpg
Using a blowgun at the outlet valve port for the rear brakes on the BMC, I shot compressed air into the bore of the master cylinder and in no time at all the secondary piston had popped out from the bore of the cylinder.
https://i.postimg.cc/3w6GBwMn/2f-Piston-Removal-Front-Piston-Removal-Piston-Popped-Out.jpg
All that was left to do was to pull the secondary piston out the rest of the way by hand.
https://i.postimg.cc/bJttFj8L/3a-Rear-Piston-After-Removal.jpg
With the primary and secondary pistons now free of the master cylinder, I thoroughly inspected the rubber seals on both pistons to look for signs of tears in the rubber O-ring seals and or deformities. But from what I could see, both the primary and secondary pistons and all of the rubber O-ring seals attached to each piston were in perfect condition and there were no signs of any kind of damage to the pistons or seals of any kind.
https://i.postimg.cc/yxhSsXDc/3b-Piston-Layout-Inside-The-Cylinder.jpg
I was hoping from there to remove the reservoir bottle on the top of the bore of the cylinder but after several pulling and prying attempts to dislodge it off of the 2 rubber grommets holding the reservoir to the cylinder with no signs of movement from the reservoir, I decided to just leave it in place otherwise I could damage the plastic reservoir tank trying more aggressive removal methods.
So now that I had reached the level of disassembly I was willing to go to with this brake master cylinder, I wanted to thoroughly clean out the entire unit so that I could inspect the bore of the cylinder for signs of damage.
I placed the BMC into a suitable sized container and filled it with a degreasing cleaning solution and place it into my ultrasonic cleaning machine and put it through a 30 minute 60 degree cycle to remove all of the remaining old brake fluid residue found inside the bore and reservoir of the BMC after its disassembly.
https://i.postimg.cc/mk3FBNP5/4a-Cleaning-Ultrasonic-amp-Simple-Green-HD-Cleaner.jpg
After its cleaning cycle in the ultra sonic machine, I then blow dried the BMC thoroughly to leave me with a spotlessly clean almost brand new looking brake master cylinder.
https://i.postimg.cc/Pf1DWhS8/4b-Cleaning-Ultrasonic-amp-Simple-Green-HD-Cleaner.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/XN95f3s2/4d-Cleaning-Ultrasonic-amp-Simple-Green-HD-Cleaner.jpg
With the BMC clean and dry, I inspected the bore of the cylinder to find it as well in perfect condition with no marks, scuffs or damage present.
https://i.postimg.cc/8kLvRDZB/4c-Cleaning-Ultrasonic-amp-Simple-Green-HD-Cleaner.jpg
The only thing I noticed after the cleaning process was this metal disc cover on the end of the cylinder that faces the front of the car, began to start coming off the adhesive that attached it to the body of the master cylinder.
https://i.postimg.cc/tCyxDfcv/5a-Front-Disc-Cover-Falling-Off.jpg
Once I removed the cover completely, there was a female hex headed bolt behind the cover.
https://i.postimg.cc/xTYzg7Zw/5b-Front-Disc-Cover-amp-Adhesive-Removed.jpg
And with all of that now done, I can safely assume that this brake master cylinder is in perfect working condition and there is no indications that it is faulty in any way. There is no damage to the internal bore of the cylinder and the components of the primary and secondary pistons are also in good condition.
I was definitely very happy with the outcome of my first disassembly process on one of the components of my car's braking system. I set myself a reasonable goal to achieve and using the information I had gathered from my research to effectively perform the task required to disassemble the unit down as much as I was happy with and once disassembled I was able to clean and confirm that my original BMC is not faulty and was not the cause of my car's inability to bleed all of the air out of the braking system.
My new plan was definitely working as i intended it to and I couldn't wait to continue to pull apart more parts and learn more about my car then I had ever done be before and thought possible.

By DJ_Party_Favor · Yesterday at 10:571 day

Sign In

CAR STALLS WHEN GEAR IS ENGAGED

Featured Replies

Recently Browsing 0

Recently Browsing 0

Popular Posts

Hello from the France

Happy Birthday cybernet

ADAMZX's OEM+ 2000spec Version R Replica Conversion & Rebuild Project Build Thread

ADAMZX's OEM+ 2000spec Version R Replica Conversion & Rebuild Project Build Thread

ADAMZX's OEM+ 2000spec Version R Replica Conversion & Rebuild Project Build Thread

Important Information

Account

Navigation

Search

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)

Chrome (Desktop)

Safari (iOS 16.4+)

Safari (macOS)

Edge (Android)

Edge (Desktop)

Firefox (Android)

Firefox (Desktop)