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hi guys looking at changing my ecu chip over the winter, I currently have a jap map in mine which seems to be overfilling on the over run (popping from exhaust) although the car runs ok, I want to get rid of the boy racer 'pop' I've come across turbonoz stage 1 chips, couple of questions are these any good? and they list 2 for a manual t/t one standard and one listed as a jwt, descriptions on both are exactly the same so anyone got any idea of the differences? the other option is I have my old zed currently for parts, which has a chip in I bought from a club member around 16/17 years ago, not sure if this was a Jim Dixon chip (or a modified version) but I always had an auto gearbox code so not sure if that was the chip or the ecu itself had been changed. 

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I wouldn't other with any chips as such.

 

Take it to someone reputable with the 300zx and have them map it there and then, it is worth it's weight in gold to have it done this way, so the map is adjusted to your car exactly rather than a generic map.

  • Author

Ok I’ll take a look, I’m running pretty stock apart from boost controller, induction and exhaust

On 09/11/2020 at 11:23, Black-zed said:

hi guys looking at changing my ecu chip over the winter, I currently have a jap map in mine which seems to be overfilling on the over run (popping from exhaust) although the car runs ok, I want to get rid of the boy racer 'pop' I've come across turbonoz stage 1 chips, couple of questions are these any good? and they list 2 for a manual t/t one standard and one listed as a jwt, descriptions on both are exactly the same so anyone got any idea of the differences? the other option is I have my old zed currently for parts, which has a chip in I bought from a club member around 16/17 years ago, not sure if this was a Jim Dixon chip (or a modified version) but I always had an auto gearbox code so not sure if that was the chip or the ecu itself had been changed. 

Before looking to change the chip / eprom, a look at the mapping via ConZult would be interesting, also popping on overrun is symptamictic of  other issues,  air been drawn into the exhaust, or leaking injector,  not seen any generic chips that would cause that as on over runn and throttle closed the injectors and fuel is switched off in line with most every modern ( ish) injection system.

Check cambelt / valve timing, pulsing from valve overlap may have an impact, or even the exhaust type, as said on overrun the fuel should be switching off so check the closed throttle sensor is actually activating correctly.

Generic chips are fine for stock cars with mild boost increase and will perform very well even with larger injectors and bigger turbo`s, only after this stage does specific mapping come into its own, and then its really just fractional changes, by far the biggest way to get your engine running best is to get is set up correctly,  ignition timing, cambelt  / timing,  boost leak checks, recirc valves check for leaks, clean air filters,  good afm readings, throttle balance, vacuum pipes checked for correct connections, correct spark plugs, correct oil and good loom connections.

Unless your confident to check all of these and have the correct equipment then get it checked over by Jim at PowerZed you will be amazed how different the car will feel after the essential checks and adjustments are done.

  • Author
On 10/11/2020 at 17:45, JeffTT said:

Before looking to change the chip / eprom, a look at the mapping via ConZult would be interesting, also popping on overrun is symptamictic of  other issues,  air been drawn into the exhaust, or leaking injector,  not seen any generic chips that would cause that as on over runn and throttle closed the injectors and fuel is switched off in line with most every modern ( ish) injection system.

Check cambelt / valve timing, pulsing from valve overlap may have an impact, or even the exhaust type, as said on overrun the fuel should be switching off so check the closed throttle sensor is actually activating correctly.

Generic chips are fine for stock cars with mild boost increase and will perform very well even with larger injectors and bigger turbo`s, only after this stage does specific mapping come into its own, and then its really just fractional changes, by far the biggest way to get your engine running best is to get is set up correctly,  ignition timing, cambelt  / timing,  boost leak checks, recirc valves check for leaks, clean air filters,  good afm readings, throttle balance, vacuum pipes checked for correct connections, correct spark plugs, correct oil and good loom connections.

Unless your confident to check all of these and have the correct equipment then get it checked over by Jim at PowerZed you will be amazed how different the car will feel after the essential checks and adjustments are done.

hi Jeff. car has always popped from the exhaust since I bought it 10 years ago, you did the cam belt on it as it was a tooth out when I bought it so you couldn't time it properly you did the belt 2013/14,  so it's a little over due but only done 10k since it was changed (will be done next year). injectors have all been replaced a few months back with later style injectors. jimmer did look at the map when the car was with him a couple of years ago, and he said there were a lot of 'red' sections on the rear part of the map which wasn't normal for a uk map, so we concluded it had a jap map chip in the car, I'm not sure if there is a octane difference between jap & uk fuel. exhaust is stainless right the way through, but it's a power flow system, the down pipes which they did 3/4 years ago have some of the worst welds i've ever seen.  but I've got brand new japspeed turbo elbows and down pipes which will go on next year, plus the cat back will be changed, it's currently 2 straight pipes to the back box (no x/h pipe)

the only part not changed is the exhaust, so for the cost I think I'll try a different map ad see if it's any different. 

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