Had my first ever rolling road session on Wednesday in the Zed. The primary reason for this was to sort my fuelling problem out, which has now been done and doesn't leave the back of my car black!

 

Anyway, managed 359 hp at the rear wheels, anybody want to have a guess as to what that might be at the crank? RR operator seemed to think i'd be loosing 50hp through the box etc, but he's not too familiar with Z trannys.

 

Another problem that was identified was clutch slip between 5000 and 6000 rpm (area of peak torque). I have an ACT with the modified organic street disc in it. Anyone reckon I'll cure the clutch slip with a paddle disc? Or is it gonna have to be stronger pressure plate? (I've checked the peddle position, and i'm not pressurising the slave cylinder at all when foot is off).

 

I'll post a piccy of my power curve in a minute - when I figure out how to use my girlfriends scanner.

 

[Ed:] p.s. I'm running 16psi on turbo technics stage ii's with Nismo 555 injectors, etc, etc...

Hi Simon, out of interest what was the cause of the overfueling??

 

Jeff TT

Originally posted by Jeff TT

Hi Simon, out of interest what was the cause of the overfueling??

 

Jeff TT

 

I hate it when this happens, I find that if you go to a garage with modern petrol pumps there is a little valve that stops it happening though, which is handy

 

;)

Originally posted by WillyEd

Had my first ever rolling road session on Wednesday in the Zed. The primary reason for this was to sort my fuelling problem out, which has now been done and doesn't leave the back of my car black!

 

Anyway, managed 359 hp at the rear wheels, anybody want to have a guess as to what that might be at the crank? RR operator seemed to think i'd be loosing 50hp through the box etc, but he's not too familiar with Z trannys.

 

Another problem that was identified was clutch slip between 5000 and 6000 rpm (area of peak torque). I have an ACT with the modified organic street disc in it. Anyone reckon I'll cure the clutch slip with a paddle disc? Or is it gonna have to be stronger pressure plate? (I've checked the peddle position, and i'm not pressurising the slave cylinder at all when foot is off).

 

I'll post a piccy of my power curve in a minute - when I figure out how to use my girlfriends scanner.

 

[Ed:] p.s. I'm running 16psi on turbo technics stage ii's with Nismo 555 injectors, etc, etc...

 

Thats a good figure, i think thats about right for stock turbos, (400 on the wheels max)

they say between 12-15% for drivetrain loss.

But its the figure at the wheels that only matters anyway.

 

How old is the clutch?

Paddle clutch will sort that out, they hold alot more torque.

What torque figure did you get>?

Just scanned my dyno chart, but got a few answers to the questions first:

 

JeffTT: Problem was with SE chip fuel map. Its massively over fuelling between 2000 and 5000rpm. Had to cut down the fuel 18% in one place!!

 

Senna: LOL :D

 

Warren: I've got an ACT clutch which has gone 3500 miles. With regards to the torque figure. I didn't get one, perhaps I should have asked for one (a print out that is). I'll get one next time I'm down there, and I've bought and installed a boost controller.

 

First run is in red, second in green, etc

 

The "50" - is the amount of horsepower that the RR operator thought I'd be loosing in the transmission

 

"349" is one power figure before altering the spark plug gap (was 1.2mm - changed to .9mm).

 

"354" was the power of my last run.

 

The dotted hand drawn line is what Ray thought I'd expect to see if the clutch wasn't slipping.

 

The up and down bit at the lower end of the graph, is where Ray was going through the gears to get to fourth.

 

What do you reckon Warren, should I be producing more power with 555's and hybrid turbos @ 16psi?

attaching the image might help:

What exactly did they do to the turbos?

ie how big is AR/compressor wheel

inlet /outlet ect...

 

As far as im aware those turbos you have on your car are stock?

Turbo techniques hybrids seem no larger than the stock blowers?

(of course correct me if im wrong)

They've got the same sized turbine wheel, but the compressor housing has been made larger inside to accomodate a larger compressor wheel. That's all I can find at the moment. Doesn't give any sizes in the 'owners guide' for my blowers. I'd need to give TT a call to find the real spec.

 

Cheers

Originally posted by WillyEd

They've got the same sized turbine wheel, but the compressor housing has been made larger inside to accomodate a larger compressor wheel. That's all I can find at the moment. Doesn't give any sizes in the 'owners guide' for my blowers. I'd need to give TT a call to find the real spec.

 

Cheers

Then id think you should have made a bit more horespower.

Serious question - Manual or Auto because on the dyno day we did all the Autos were quite abit of on Power compared to Manuals with similar mods. *(not having a go or anything, being serious) And of course drivetrain loss is alot more on an Auto.

In which case your figure is probably pretty good.

But 16psi (were you defo not getting detonation?)

 

I would say you should have a bit more power than that , because thats obtainable on stock turbos.

Manual with a noisey main shaft bearing.

 

I was / still am getting very mild det at 5 - 6K but Ray didnt seemed to concerned, which I was of course - My guess is that its still a tad rich up top because it chuffs a bit of smoke there.

 

Also timing is set to -14 degrees BTDC (manual was 15 +/- 2), so i set if for 14 - is this an area for improvement.

 

Cheers for this Warren, your input is most appreciated btw.