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Hi Guys. whats been going on is when the engine is warm/hot and i start it , it starts okay and the revs go about 800 -900. but when i put it in D or R the revs suck right down and sometimes stalls. inconvenient and quite frankly downright embarrassing. When the engine is cold, the idle is at 1100-1200 so when it sucks down it doesn't stall. No i have read LOADS of articles about this and the fixes are to numerous to mention. One thing i do not want to do is to go ferreting around, looking for the answer only to make a dozen more problems from disturbing 20 year old electrics. So is this problem of mine a common issue and all i need to do is increase the idle speed?

One thing i was going to attempt was to check the volts on the tps, is this an easy check?

 

Regards

 

Rich

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What ever happens dont go ajusting timming and breathing cas if you havnt touched anything then itll be harder to find and put right.sounds likee u found your fault and good luck.

  • Author

Whatever next!!!

 

Okay, so everything was okay, on cold, starts first turn, revs high, engages gear, no hesitation or stalling... so base idle, tps and other stuff need checking, attach some software and base idle fine, timing okay, tps .52, adjusted to .42, Great!. notice it has 2 codes, 34 and 13, knock sensor and temp sensor. Told about the 1M ohm resistor, and will change sensor/connector tomorrow. Now for the GOTCHA!

 

Starts. ..Stalls, starts up..Stalls, starts up..Stalls you get the picture, needs my right boot till its warm. Then runs at 1100 revs, pulls down to 500-600 upon gear engage, and nearly stalls. Back to fecking square one!!

 

Is this sounding like a tps problem, 'cos thats all we adjusted! Can the 2 error codes cause it? can someone lend me a box to put my hair in, because i've pulled it all out..

 

Help in the usual way

 

rich

Ok, TPS needs to be no lower than 0.44v-0.45v, mainly for gear changes in the auto, but also the throttle body is now telling the ECU its closed more than it should be, your main problem appears to be the temp sensor, check the connector first for corrosion, the resistor you need for the knock sensor is a 1mega ohm, but the knock sensor wont be causing the idle issue.

 

The ECU will be taking its reading from the temp sensor to adjust fuel and air accordingly, if its duff or bad contact on the connector then its fighting a losing battle.

What was the base idle reading? The timing will show 15deg as thats what the ECU is telling the laptop it needs to see, but you will need a timing light to make sure it is at 15deg

  • Author

If i can find the voltmeter way of doing the tps, i'll change that, i'll look at the temp sensor today, base idle was okay,

 

watch this space

  • Author

Hi steve,

Thought i'd attack the temp sensor while it was cold this morning, First thing was to check the connector. as usual GREEN everywhere, usual procedure, good clean and vaseline.

 

Result = starts first time, back to normal, even lower rpm with warmer engine. I'd like to say the problem is fixed, but we all know different, they just fade away for a while.

So at the moment im happy where it is and i'm not touching it. So this should be the last of my "hes and stall" posts, justs cant understand how changing the tps caused it to revert back to bad running.

 

One question for anyone, once i put a 1 mega ohm res in the connector for the knock sensor, will the codes disappear naturally or not, also would these codes have put the car into reduced performance mode at all, like a TT (i think)

 

Rich

The temp sensor code should clear, i would have thought the knock sensor would clear once its telling the ECU its not shot, but you can clear the codes on scantech.

  • 5 weeks later...
  • Author

hi guys, well this thread would appear to over and finished, and to be honest, it is. all things have been sorted, all codes cleared and car running sweetly.

 

That was right after I had sorted everything, how ever a couple of weeks later I'm finding I'm getting some hesitation when I initially put it in first and depress the pedal, it hesitates and then picks up and goes on. it never stalls, and has baffled me. I have put the diag tool on it and all figures are as they should.

 

Considering what I have done previously, is there something I may have missed that is causing this?

 

More regards

 

Rich

Have you balanced the throttle bodies, ie make sure they open together in sync, otherwise that may cause the slight stumble.

 

There is a thread Jeff made in the tech section.

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