hi folks.

 

my ABS light wont go out and i want to pull the codes off the LED on the side of the control module. I cant make put its location by the manual. Its not beside the actuator unit, can someone point me to where it is to save me pulling heaps of boot trim off that doesnt need to come off?

 

cheers.

iirc it's behind the drivers seat in the trim panel.

haha, ye thanks, i found it after ripping all the trim out the RH side of the boot, then followed the harness down to the side of the rear seat.

 

managed to clear a code 1 - the solenoid was 27ohms. cleaned it all up and its down to 1.3 ish ohms which is within spec. the LED doesnt flash now but the the ABS light is still on the dash.

 

any ideas? ive followed all the fault finding procedures in the book and i need more direction.

 

the ABS is working fine. its just the dash light is on all the time. of the actuator relay was bust it would be pulling the lamp down to earth and making it come on, is that correct?

This thread has now turned into a 'my ABS light is on and wont go out'

 

there were no issues when the car was parked up a few years ago.

 

dash 'ANTI-LOCK' light is on continuously

 

the ABS works fine

 

no flashing LED on the control unit while the engine is running

 

i have tested all the pin-outs to earth and there are no issues (pins 20, 10, 34)

 

power at all the pins that should have power (1 on the connector and all the power pins on the actuator+motor)

 

Alternator shows 14.2V at pin 15

 

i read on some posts that the fluid level switch can cause it, but it doesnt even go into the control unit, i proved it anyway by shorting the connector. All it does is bring on the ( P ) handbrake light.

 

I read JeffTTs old thread about issues with jump starting, i pulled the case off the control unit but didnt see the burnt tracks that he had.

 

to prove the control unit was working, i pulled the actuator relay and it started flashing a '10' so it is working.

 

really stuck now. would love some help before i go swapping out control units etc...which iam loathed to do until ive tried EVERYTHING else.

 

 

cheers,

do u have the right amount of fluid in the PAS pot m8 ?

do u have the right amount of fluid in the PAS pot m8 ?

 

Didn't think that ABS had anything to do with the power steering?

Doh ... could sworn in the post somewhere is said Hicas haha

 

 

Well ok the it does have the right amount of brake fluid then ?

Doh ... could sworn in the post somewhere is said Hicas haha

 

Well ok the it does have the right amount of brake fluid then ?

 

Phew, thought i was going mad there..lol

do u have the right amount of fluid in the PAS pot m8 ?

 

ye, PAS is fine. ( i fitted that hose this morning that you sent, no more ATF drips. thanks again)

Doh ... could sworn in the post somewhere is said Hicas haha

 

 

Well ok the it does have the right amount of brake fluid then ?

 

it does, ive already proved the switch by linking the connector out. (its not even wired into the ABS unit)

Could it be something daft like a corroded connection at the bulb side?

i doubt it,

 

the light is on, so there is definitely power on one side of it. from the diagram, there are 2 things which can turn it on- the control unit can pull it to earth and so can the solenoid/actuator relay (when its de energised).

All I can suggest then mate is that you try a known working relay. Not much help sorry.

I'll need to try something like that.

 

i cant remove it and link across the relay it because that causes the coil to go O/C and bring the lamp on through the module.

 

the relay must be working because the actuators....actuate, and the pump goes like crazy when i try and lock it up on a gravel road. I think i would need a nissan ABS test unit to hook in series with the control unit in order to 'see' what's going on.

 

i hate blindly changing out stuff before ive proved what the fault is, most often you end up with more problems than you started with. lol

 

cheers!

 

i hate faults like this that dont make sense.

 

cheers!

Just been out this morning and stuck the scope on each wheel sensor at the control unit connector.

all the signals back are steady and consistent from each wheel, nice sine-waves with not funny shapes (which would indicate a damaged or dirty tooth ring) so cant see anything wrong with them.

 

if i disconnect the control unit AND the solenoid/actuator relay, the lamp goes out. which makes sense as per the schematic in the book.

 

any other things to test before i buy an 'unknown' control unit to swap it with?

Pretty sure that you've tested everything you can mate, appreciate that you don't like swapping components but sometimes it's the only way. If you get one from someone like Jeff, then you'll have piece of mind that it's a good one.

 

PS. I've replied to your rad hose wanted thread ;)

Edited September 21, 201312 yr by Steams

For anyone who is interested or has a similar fault in future, i changed out the ABS control module and solved the problem instantly.

 

it must have had a spike or a surge at some point either being jump started or more likely when the batter lead fell off while the engine was running.

 

thanks for everyones input.

 

cheers,