What would cause the car to kangaroo? That's the best explanation I have or it anyway.

 

Often when I'm slowing doen in gear, or perhaps tickling the throttle at fairly low speeds, it feels like the car (or engine at least) is kangarooing so to speak.

 

Any ideas what would cause this?

what have you done to diagnose it?

 

to start with do an ecu check.

then check and clean all connectors.

check the air & fuel filters are OK (and or renew).

check for correct resistance on coil packs & injectors.

check that injectors are working OK.

check for fuel leaks on injector rail and injectors.

check TPS voltage.

check timing with a timing light.

check and change plugs if required.

check for air leaks in vac system.

check ecu temp sensor unit.

 

if all those are done and you are still having an issue its worth putting it on Conzult or ECUTALK (or others) to see if there are any other issues.

 

plenty of guides on all that stuff.

 

good luck.

if the engine is ok .. i would say its down to slop in the drive train .. Check the Center bearing on the prop shaft

Thanks,

So I have a few other things that seem to be happening and I hope someone can tel me if it's all related (hopefully something simple).

 

When cold, the car revs fairly high (1500 - 2200 ISH rpm). When the car reaches temperature, it still seems to rev a bit high until a pull up at some lights and keep my foot on the clutch for a while at which point it drops down to where it should be (750), and then goes down to there as normal.

 

The car seems to be smoking a bit too. When I stop the car (engine off), it seems like there's still smoke/gases coming from the exhaust for a short time... Usually passenger side.

 

Also the car smells of fuel (especially if driving behind the car apparently).

 

Any more idea's?

All of the connectors seem fine.

I can't find any obvious fuel leaks around the engine.

TPS is fine.

ECU check on datascan is all clear.

 

The rest is still to check but don't really know how to check things like the injectors and the resistance on the coilpacks

check the temp sender unit using datascan, that might be having an issue.

 

did you check the connectors... try the MAF one first... have you checked for vac / boost leak?

How do I check the temp sender on datascan? Should it read something specific or just tell me the temperature?

I have checked the connectors but isn't look at the maf one (cos I'm silly) but the whole loom is pretty new.

 

Ill double check for boost leaks and ill you know. Is it 7 or 9 psi you put through ?

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

How do I check the temp sender on datascan? Should it read something specific or just tell me the temperature?

I have checked the connectors but isn't look at the maf one (cos I'm silly) but the whole loom is pretty new.

 

Ill double check for boost leaks and ill you know. Is it 7 or 9 psi you put through ?

How do I check the temp sender on datascan? Should it read something specific or just tell me the temperature?

I have checked the connectors but isn't look at the maf one (cos I'm silly) but the whole loom is pretty new.

Ill double check for boost leaks and ill you know. Is it 7 or 9 psi you put through ?

 

Yeah, just check that it is sending a temp signal and that it seems to be right ... goes up as expected from cold.

 

not worried about the age of the loom, worried about corrosion or connection at MAF (that particular connector gets it bad from the elements).

 

I can't see why you can't go higher, just don't go stupid or you could blow things off... if there is a leak you won't make it to 9..lol..

Prop shaft is fine (checked it while getting mot today)

Could be the input shaft on the gearbox, as Mark said if its sloppy, it will feel like kangerooing as you described, mine is similar and i know thats the problem with mine, doesnt bother me too much. New box or rebuild if it is that though bud.

How would I check that? Don't know if its a sign but the cars clutch fluid was very low, gonna monitor it over the next week or so

With the engine on and box in neutral, do you get like a release bearing rattle and it disappears when you depress the clutch?

Secondly, roll along at a slow speed, in second gear and let the car either try to pull along or about to come to a stand still, if its the input shaft, you will get a slight judder, kangaroo effect, drop the clutch in then out again and you will hear the clunking.

Not really getting the rattle in neutral

Thats good, not release bearing or input shaft, although cant rule the shaft out just yet. How did you check the prop? Lets try and eliminate some usual suspects in the drive line that are non engine related to see if it can be pinpointed. Gearbox mount, prop centre bearing, input shaft on gearbox.

 

Does it feel similar to when the engine labours in the wrong gear, ie as you are rolling to a corner, then pulling away in third or for instance as you are coming to a stop and leaving dipping the clutch till the last minute before stalling.

You need a full sensor readout when the problem is occurring. The AFR too.

 

First thing I would do if nothing was glaringly obvious would be to remove the MAF & clean the wire carefully with a suitable fluid and cotton bud. I use acetone, brake cleaner will be fine. If you're bothered about your MAF having the mesh in place, it can always be reaffixed with superglue. Even if this isn't the root of the problem, a clean MAF is a happy MAF :)

 

Although you say it's fine, it does sound like it could be a TPS issue. It should be outputting around 0.4-0.46v on idle, and the idle switch should deactivate at around 0.5-0.54v. You can usually hear a faint click as you depress the throttle very slightly, accompanied by a change in the engine note as the timing jumps from 15° at idle to 25°/40° or whatever the main timing map has been programmed to.

 

O2 sensors OK? Rev it to 2k and the output voltage will flick backward & forward (on the gauge readout). AAC working correctly? Have you disconnected the IACV and ensured the base idle RPM is correct? Various little things first of all to ensure the car is running as it should be.

Just a quick update.

 

So I cleaned the connections on the MAF as they were a little green (MAF end). The car seemed better but that didn't last too long at all and then kangarooing again lol.

 

Just changed the spark plugs out just now. I found a little oil on one of te plugs (cylinder 3 - middle drivers side). Any idea why there would or could be oil there? I'm not sure if its just where some has been dropped down at some point or if its actually came from where the plug screws in to

Just been out with the datascan too.

 

The temp sender seems to be working ok (just checking against the aftermarket gauge and both are similar).

The TPS is reading 0.46 on idle.

Timing is showing 15 (when up to temp and on datascan not timing light).

The O2 sensors seem fairly active when revving at 2K.

 

The car doesn't feel very smooth on idle after it eventually settles does. Just feels a little lumpy.

Could it be the map? I doubt it like cos JD did it.

Looks like you've checked everything mate. Could it be because can't drive properly ?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Only joking mate :lol::lol:

I'm starting to wonder, I obviously can't start it properly either cos it doesn't idle smoothly either.

Your TPS setting is a little high, you could try setting it to 0.44. Probably not make any difference but you never know. Also, check the timing with a gun just to confirm what datascan says. I've know the software to show a big difference between the readings from it and a gun.

Will do. Worth a try but I thought 0.46 was right.

 

Will I be able to see the light when using the timing gun through the day? Never used one but did get one through the door a couple of days ago lol

Will do. Worth a try but I thought 0.46 was right.

 

Will I be able to see the light when using the timing gun through the day? Never used one but did get one through the door a couple of days ago lol

 

You should be able to see the strobe in daylight, just make sure the sun isn't shinning directly on it and you'll be fine.

 

Meant to ask; is the TPS reading rock steady or does it vary slightly ?

Lol. Out of interest. Would an N/A maf work on a TT. I have one in the shed for some reason but I've never had an N/A, just TT's

The TPS sits still mate

Just had a read of the Conzult manual and it says that it should read 0.45 volts when throttle is fully shut and 4.00v when fully open. Tbh mate, it's been a while since I sorted mine and I can't remember if it's normally set to 0.44 or 0.46. Since it's a steady reading your getting then it's more than likely fine.

 

Couldn't say about the MAF bud.

Any idea about the oil on the spark plug thing?

Any idea about the oil on the spark plug thing?

 

No mate, except there shouldn't be any, unless you've just done a leak down test on that cylinder. One for the engine experts there.