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I have just bought a scooby STI type RA which im looking to fix and sell on. Its got a miss fire when your at low speed and barely touching the loud pedal but as soon as you put your foot down a bit the misfire goes and drives mint. Its only there when your just on the throttle????

 

anybody had anything to do with these be helpful

 

Thanks dave

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had this on a mates imprezza sportwagon....was two things loose butterfly likage ...and poor throttle position sensor conector ..i think it was a black plastic plug connector at the back of the engine ...looking from the front if i remember , alternator sits at the top middle ,then behind it a red plenum , directly in line with the altenator behind the plenum was the faulty corroded plug ......Hope that helps mate

  • Author

thanks i will give that a go later! funny enough i have just bought 2 cans of conntact cleaner for my zed!

They all sound like they have a misfire all the time! Lol joking aside perhaps worth checking the coil pack? 2 friends of mine had imprezas one of them had to change it the other one bought a car and in the history it had had one recently.

  • Author

well after spending all day on the scooby i have sorted the misfire which wasnt a misfire it was a exhaust like swiss chesse. Anyway new problem i have is a hesitation/spluttering on light throttle under 1500 rpm above this its fine and ideas anyone?

 

i gave what i think is the tps a clean plus its had a full service

  • Author

yeah i have changed the plugs and gave the coils a clean. and big jim im putting it up for £1795 with new mot and tax till october. Ill put it on here when i have sorted it and got the mot done. i have 1 photo but ill get some more done once its ready for sale

 

scooby.jpg

Are you sure its an Ra?

They had roof scoops and were lightweight so no sideskirts, electric windows etc.

260bhp the earlier ones, not a red top engine.

  • Author

Well its got a sticker on it :lol: its also not got central locking no electric windows no abs and the engine is all silver

Could be the lambda sensor is knackered, it was this that caused low rev hesitation on my mini clubman!

firstly check :or Eliminate all external influences, such as an incorrect or dirty air filter, loose or tracked intake duct, dirty fuel filter, low fuel pressure, PVC system, or low engine vacuum that would indicate an external leak or an internal engine component.

once this has been done then the problem could be.. the ECM

 

this will retard ignition up to 10 degress after picking up a knock sensor signel, this will not be cured by taking of the earth but may need th ecm replacing,,, this is an inherent problem,,, check with diagnostics and if a knock signle is present,, try clearing it and run the car,, if it picks up another signle then it could be engine vibrations causing the knock signle to be sent,,, this may need the ecm to be changed... thus retarding the ignition..

 

HOPE THIS HELPS..

  • Author

i have changed spark plugs there easy to get to if you take the air filter and washer bottle out. and ill look into the sensors above thanks guys.

 

is there a way of cheaking for fault codes like you can on the zeds?

you can do a check on the classic scoobvs but them only,, 22b's

?action=view&current=manualenginechecksuburu.jpg

In order to perform diagnostic (and ECU resets) you will need to connect some wires together under your steering column. Note, the following procedure only works for Classic shape Impreza’s, not for Newage.

 

1.Make sure your ignition is OFF

2.Connect the Black ‘Read Memory’ connectors together as illustrated above.

3.When the above are connected you are in diagnostics mode. 4.Turn your ignition ON and ‘read’ the ECU code(s) being reported according to the following instructions. Note, you may here relays clicking and your fan starting and stopping - this is normal when in diagnostics mode.

5.In Diagnostic Mode – No Fault is indicated by the Check Engine Light continuously & evenly flashing on/off (this is also used to indicate the successful completion of an ECU Reset).

6.The long pulses (1.3 Seconds) indicate Tens and the short pulses (0.2 Seconds) indicate ones. Pulses are separated by Short Pauses (0.2 Seconds), multiple codes are separated by a Long Pause (1.8 Seconds).

 

The simplest way for an inexperienced mechanic to retrieve codes is to write the codes down in a sort of Morse Code (dots and dashes), and start a new line when you get a 1.8 Second pause (for NEW code), and then add the actual numbers up after code retrieval is completed.

 

For Example;

 

1.3 second pulse (10)

0.2 second pause

1.3 second pulse (10….for a total of 20)

0.2 second pause

0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 21)

0.2 second pause

0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 22)

0.2 second pause

0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 23)

(Code 23 — MAF Sensor)

 

Or Multiple Codes

 

1.3 second pulse (10)

0.2 second pause

1.3 second pulse (10….for a total of 20)

0.2 second pause

0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 21)

0.2 second pause

0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 22)

0.2 second pause

0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 23)

1.8 second pause (this means NEW code)

 

1.3 second pulse (10)

 

0.2 second pause

0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 11)

0.2 second pause

.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 12)

(Codes 23 and 12, MAF Sensor and Starter Circuit)

 

hope this helps..

Engine out to do plugs? WTF! The plugs in a Scooby are easy as hell! Compared to the Z or something like a Mitsubishi VR4 at least. In the Z you have to remove the balance bar and all sorts, in the VR4 you actually have to remove the damn intake manifold (Which in itself is an episode!) just to get to the back 3 plugs. Scoobies just require a decent socket set and some patience. You don't have to remove ANYTHING to get them out.

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