as some of you may know im doing a complete nut and bolt restoration on my swb. im currently doing the floorpan so soonish ill be rebuilding the rear subframe.

 

ill be going to quite an effort to make sure the subframe etc will be totally rust proofed and better finished than when it left the factory.

 

At the moment i have the rear subframe from my swb and the one off my breaker, both are tt. ive got a hicas delete bar but im not sure if i want a n/a subframe instead. obviously i dont want to restore a tt one only to decide to go N/A.

 

ok then guys what would you advise

 

as far as i can see it the N/a will give me a lower gearing (better acceleration), is lighter (by how much) and removes the need for the hicas bar.

 

The tt will give a more relaxed crusing rpm, better fuel economy and most of all would be free.

 

Any thoughts? anyone got one?

Are you bothered about quicker acceleration? do you know the difference it makes?

 

I've got an NA diff to fit to my TT.

 

IMO its a no brainer I'd get an NA subframe & diff. You could sell your HICAS removal stuff to help fund it, not sure how much they go for second hand.

im not sure on the difference to be honest, one of the main considerations is the weight saving, i think i will end up buying new hicas joints for the tt subframe if i use it aswell so this will add to the cost.

 

ive got a complete set of adjustable arms which i was going to use on my 200sx but i might bung them on the 300

35'ish KG weight difference - the Diff is smaller and lighter and the driveshafts are slightly thinner and lighter, and the lack of hicas.

 

The Diff is also a more popular type (R200), with more aftermarket LSD support than the original R230 TT Diff. Both are Viscous LSD.

 

The real noticable change though is in the Final drive ratio.

 

Your acceleration from zero all the way to top speed is improved...limited to about 165'ish max...but it will get to that speed quicker !

 

Hard to put a definate number on the difference, but MWZ in the U.S recorded a before and after and recorded a 0.5 sec improvedment 0-60, and the difference would be even greater on the 1/4 mile.

Couple of videos here http://www.mwsmotorsports.com/mwstv.htm

 

If you do a lot of motorway driving then keep in mind that it will run at about 300rpm higher when cruising, which will have a bit of an affect on mpg.

 

I converted my Slicktop, and im very happy with the conversion. I dont have any before and after comparison, and I have a lot of other modifications and weight savings at the same time, but it feels much more alive and responsive compared to a typical TT of similar power.

 

Silverbullet is the only other person I can think of that converted his who may be able to give a direct before & after comparison. Not sure who else has done it.

Edited June 4, 201114 yr by Yowser

thanks mate,

 

my car is going to be not too dissimilar to yours, ive been trying to loose as much weight out of it without sacrificing comfort, i still want a nice interior.

 

so far i have ditched,

 

the ac

the hicas

aav etc

the sound deadening will come out soon

std seats replaced with recaros (at least half the weight)

spare wheel will go

battery relocated to boot area.

rear wiper,spoiler and weight removed from the hatch

alloy flywheel, pully and one piece prop (to come)

enkei 17" (very light) wheels

 

you get the idea, obviously starting out as a swb it is a bit lighter too

 

looking to remove atleast 100kg

 

i guess with the n/a back end it should be livley enough for me.