Just got back from the MOT test of my 300zx tt. FAILED!!!!

Devastated to say the least,:crying: After 4 years of work with regards to new sills/floor etc' etc'

 

I now find myself with problems that I am unsure of how to fix. I really would appreciate some help and advice please.

 

(1) During break testing, the tester said he thought he had just blown a line at the rear, sure enough, after looking underneath there was fluid pi**ing down onto the right hand side exhaust system, heartbreaking or what.

 

(2) Both rear top tie-bar bushes were shot, causing excessive movement from left to right. When I asked him if this was a big job he would not commit himself. (What do you guy's think? Could I do it myself?)

 

(3) Next came the Emissions, Failed on all 3 idle tests!!

I have include the results for the first fast idle,

could someone suggest the possible remedy please?

 

CO, Target 0.300 Max. Actual reading, 4.251

 

HC, Target 200 Max. Actual reading, 265.

 

Lambda, Target 0.970 to 1.030. Actual 0.888.

 

One thing I did notice, On the emissions printout, it listed the vehicle as,

Nissan 350Z, Does this mean the test could be to stringent for the 300zx?

 

These figures do not mean a lot to me so would someone be kind enough to suggest the probable cause please?

At the moment I feel as though it is the end of the world, hopefully it's not.

Thanks in advance, Dave.

Thanks Jeff TT,

I have just finished lowering her on to rear axle stands, I will have to get the manual out to research removal of the diff. It is a little way off yet, but when it comes to parts, will you be able to help? I imagine, brake pipe, nuts and clips etc'? oh, and also bushes etc' Once I have figured out how to remove them in situ.

Thanks for the advice by the way.

Good luck with it Dave, bit of bad news after 4 years preparation, but it doesnt need a great deal. It'll soon be on the road :thumbup1:

Cheers Baz, just what the doctor ordered.

I guess when I am over the disappointment I will see the light at the end of the tunnel.

Cheers Baz, just what the doctor ordered.

I guess when I am over the disappointment I will see the light at the end of the tunnel.

 

.. lets hope its not a freight train hammering towards you :lol:

I do hope not Baz, although it does feel that way at the moment.:cursing:

Thanks again Jeff, But looking at some of the bushes on the sub frame etc' I have decided to drop the frame as well,:scared: curious to see what the car is like up there.

Having made a start, everything seemed to go OK, managed to free off most of the nuts and bolts etc'. however, the 2 things I would like ask for help with are,

(1) How do I get the exhaust bolts free? I am worried that if I apply to much force and they don't give I am going to round the bolts.

(2) Same with the diff, I have a good 8mm key, plus bar, but the damn things won't budge. Also, how can I keep the prop solid?

Any help very much appreciated.

Thanks, Dave.

get the rear brake lines checked if that;s a worry, mine failed but was only surface rust and passed after a little treatment on the retest, typical though over putting effort in ....just find the nearest model and hope for best on emmisions (not good) id go with another test elsewhere but get someone to have a look first :)

i had to cut my exhaust bolts off lay on my back with a hacksaw. few hours later got threw the last one and the whole exhaust fell on my face :(

Ouch!!:crying: Car Mad, (not to bad I hope?) With that fear in mind, I have been back to the exhaust for another go! Could only manage 3 out of the 4 mind. Looks like the hack saw for me too!

On a separate note, can anyone help me with the 2 connectors on the back of the diff? do they just pull off? or do I need some sort of special tool to disconnect before I drop the sub frame?

Still do not know how best to tackle the prop shaft mind.:helpsmilie:

With your experience in mind Car Mad, I attacked the last retaining bolt with a dremmel, Managed to get the nut off without to much damage to the stud, so it remained suspended while I got out from under. Also managed to get the dreaded HICAS ball joints off the tapers, so I feel I have made some headway to-wards dropping the frame.

2 problems still exist though and I could really do with some help, pleeeeease.

1, How do I disconnect the 2 connectors at the back of the diff?

2, How do I keep the diff locked whilst I undo the 8mm socket head screws?

Sorry to beg. but could someone help please?

Thanks so far guy's.

Redwine300

1, How do I disconnect the 2 connectors at the back of the diff?

2, How do I keep the diff locked whilst I undo the 8mm socket head screws?

1. ABS and Diff temp sendors ? Cant remember the specifics of them but no special tools needed. Are'nt they the Dark red connectors with the tab you need to push in on the side ? Screwdriver to push it in helps, they get very tight.

 

2. Handbrake, either via the actual Handbrake handle - but does mean having to undo it and putting back on a few times to rech all bolts.

or. By pulling on the actual handbrake cable itself near the diff, where it splits to each side as you undo them.

 

Having somebody to provide an extra pair of hands helps.

Edited April 30, 201114 yr by Yowser

Ouch!!:crying: Car Mad, (not to bad I hope?) With that fear in mind, I have been back to the exhaust for another go! :

 

 

 

No i was fine. my nose broke the fall and it really hurt :punk:

 

Glad you got yours off ok :yes:

No i was fine. my nose broke the fall and it really hurt :punk:

 

Glad you got yours off ok :yes:

 

I remember how funny it was when you told us :lol:

Funny i remember how much it hurt :lol::lol:

Yowser, Can't thank you enough for taking the time to help.

For the connections on the diff, 1 is red and the other is black.

Looks like I will have to strip back some of the original shielding to see how it connects, spade connectors?

As for the diff, I have disconnected the brake cylinders but not the hand brake cable but I am unsure as to how the handbrake will still work?

I have to say, I am a little frightened about rounding the socket heads, should I expect them to be really tight?

So close yet so far!!!

CarMad, Hopefully you are OK? Thanks for your help so far.

I shall pull the back section of the exhaust first thing and look at trying to separate the diff from the prop, Will the prop push back enough to clear the recess in the diff? or will I have to separate the prop at the centre bearing?

More Helllllpppppp Please.

Thanks again, Dave.

Managed to get the 2 connectors off,:clap: A bit like miniature spark plug connectors.:yes:

By the way Yowser, thanks for the tip with the handbrake with regards to the diff bolts, worked a treat.:thumbup: managed to get all 6 out without any problems.

I have read several "how to remove the rear sub frame" articles and believe me, there is a lot missing,:pinch: talk about a pain in the a**e!. I think I have just 2 nuts remaining and she should be on the floor.:taz:

 

Still hoping for some advice with regards to the diff separating from the prop as she is lowered, any takers please?:innocent:

Sorry to be a pain,:blush: But I am really struggling to separate the diff from the prop shaft.:smash: Is it possible to pull the diff from the coupling once the 6 off 8mm hex bolts are removed or am I missing something?:wacko:

I am hoping it is just stuck and that a good tug will free it? but so far it will not budge.

Hope someone will help soon pleeeeeeease.:bow::bow::bow:

Thanks, Dave.

Sorry to be a pain,:blush: But I am really struggling to separate the diff from the prop shaft.:smash: Is it possible to pull the diff from the coupling once the 6 off 8mm hex bolts are removed or am I missing something?:wacko:

I am hoping it is just stuck and that a good tug will free it? but so far it will not budge.

Hope someone will help soon pleeeeeeease.:bow::bow::bow:

Thanks, Dave.

yes, once undone it will pull off, but it can be tight if its never been off before.

 

If you have'nt already done so, unbolt the prop bearing carrier from the car so the prop drops in the middle and gives you plenty of movement.

 

If for any reason you need to seperate the two prop halves, be sure to mark where they join together for putting it back together or it will be out of balance.

Thanks Yowser,:thumbup1: You're a star.:thumbup:

After rotating the prop bit by bit and tapping the sides each time as I did, the diff as you said, came away from the prop. Big thanks,:bow:

I was beginning to wounder if I would ever get the frame on the deck, but on the deck it is, at last.:dance:

Now comes the task of replacing all the rotten brake pipes, I have not figured out what to do yet as I have not tackled brake lines before. As someone said earlier in the thread, perhaps I could splice into the lines individually at a more accessible place?

By the way, would you guy's have expected photos as I went? I am happy to from here on in if it would be of interest or help to others.

Thanks Again, Dave.

Nice one Dave.

 

Its always handy to get a few pics up :yes:

Pics will always be of help to everyone else

Sorry I did not take any earlier photo's,:blushing: I guess I could take some at various stages when it comes to the rebuild showing the various hurdles I came across.

In the mean time, here are a few photo's of my initial findings with the frame removed.

This picture shows what I believe to be the pipe that burst during the test.

I hope these are of some use, if there are any particular areas not covered, let me know.

can anyone tell me the correct sizes of brake line I need to order please?:flowers:

IE pipe diameter and thread sizes etc' I have tried to measure the outside diameter and it looks around 5mm, would this be right? I need to order a brake flaring kit also and I would hate to order the wrong one.:ohmy:

any help would be very much appreciated guy's.:helpsmilie:

Pity your not closer, you could borrow my flaring set,have a big selection of fittings too!-to heavy to post but you are welcome to collect:biggrin:

This is the stuff you need,3/16=4.76mm

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Cupro-Nickel-Kunifer-3-16-x-25ft-Brake-Pipe-BS-EN12449-/120488471584?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c0dac2c20

Cheers for the offer Mantav8,:thumbup1: Very kind indeed.

I asked around at work once I new the brake pipe size, (thanks again:bow:) and I have been lent a brand new one.

On your advice, I have bought all the bits I think I will need and can't wait to make a start in the morning.:taz:

Thanks again mate.