Hi there all, have a 1995 TT 2+2 300zx, sitting at home, the starter motor relay behind front wheel arch has been replaced because car would not start (no crank or anything) however did not make a difference. Hooked up between pos and neg terminals of relay plug so that it starts, however because the old alternator was overcharging massively (replaced now and charging fine) there are a few problems. Have no power steering, auto box has entered a limp home mode perhaps (when moving off in drive from a standstill, attempts to drive off in 3rd gear). If auto box is put into 1st, then 2nd, then drive when you move off car still has full power. Additionally HICAS light is on on the dash, so that system is not working (probably not such a bad thing but still...). Also when car is started, cannot move gear lever out of park without using the red switch on the back of the lever. After it is out of park it moves normally. (solenoid maybe?) So yes, lots of problems, most important being the power steering. Have visually checked all fuses I can find (this is not the type of car I usually work on) I have some electrical knowledge but no tools they are all in NZ unfortunately. We are having real trouble finding anybody who can help. We live in Kent, near Orpington, and I am wondering if there is anybody who would accept a paid job to come and help me out because I am completely stuck and can't get the car to the only specialist shop I can find which is in Birmingham! Way too far :( Please, any help would be appreciated! Many thanks!

Have you checked the power steering fluid level? (don't mean to patronise, but can be easily over-looked, and the hi-cas light is for that too) and are you pressing the brake when trying to move out of park? (it wont come out of park unless you are pressing the brake)... HTH matey, if i was nearer i'd pop over, but it's a fair trek!

you haven't got the switch on the autobox shifter console (if it's an import) in the middle? having it on 'hold' will cause the car pull off in 2nd gear....

meant to say have you got the switch in the middle position....

D2 in Kent will be able to sort you out, do a search or google.

 

With the ignition on, depress the brake pedal, you should hear a click. The switch activates the solenoid to move the shifter.

Did the speedo work fine or move irratically when the power steering plays up? if so could be dry joints on the speedo board.

You will have electric hicas if it's a 95 so could be a fuse or loose wire, the switch by the gearstick should have power and hold, try it in power you should get a light on the dash saying power this will give higher rpm before shifting to the next gear.

 

I'm not that far from you, could pop over after work, could be with you around 5.30.

 

Paul

just a thought . if your hicas light is on you may be low on fluid . if this is the case is it leaking from the pipe under the reservoir . this is a common fault with zeds . right below the prone pipe is the alternater . power steering fluid leaking in to the alternater can cause electrical mayhem . just have a check to see if the pipe under the reservoir is showing signs of fluid . if it is this could be the cause of your problems .

He has a 95 model so it will not be low on fliud because Nissan changed to an electric HICAS system. Unless it has been registered in the wrong year.

 

Paul

i didnt know that matey . when i got mine i,d got the above mentioned leak and it caused havoc . the leak wrecked my alternater . caused havoc with my hair loss aswell . lol

sorry to hear about your hair loss, lol

Thank you all for your replies! I haven't checked the fluids, but they were checked recently and it wasn't a gradual on/off change you would see for power steering if the fluid was low.. I forgot to mention in my original post that the old alternator didn't just die, the voltage regulator went and it was overcharging... New one works perfectly, however I think it may have done the damage already? When started if you depress the brake pedal there is no audible click, the solenoid for the shift lock doesn't seem to activate at all.. I'm not sure but I don't think it is a fused ciruit? So the overcharging could have buggered the solenoid? I'm not entirely sure but maybe have melted some wires or connections somewhere as I can't visually see any problems with fuses anywhere (unfortunately can't check for continuity I don't have anything to do it with :( ) how expensive are new auto ecu's? lol..

 

Thanks so much for all your help so far! I have seen a couple threads on other forums with the exact same problems but can't find a solution quite yet :)

And Paul thank you so much for your offer! I will send you a P.M. :)

Ah, I feel like a newb lol I can't find how to send a private message.. well paul my email address is jamie.tilly@gmail.com, if you could possibly send me an email that would be absolutely brilliant if we could get in contact! Very stuck :) if you would be free at some point on the weekend that would be brilliant! I am obviously more than happy to pay for petrol and a call out fee or whatever you wish! Would just like to get this car back on the road haha! :)

oh, and one more thing, just in case, Groom, would that be D2 Electrical in Rochester, Kent? Or D2 Vehicle Services in Alma Place, Strood? Thanks :)

strood, also behind the drivers kickpanel where the fuse board is, there are relays and most of the main electrical gubbins is terminated there. You will have to take the fuse board out to get to it iirc

Have emailed you Jamie.

 

Paul

Brilliant thanks very much all! Hopefully will be fixed soon!