Had to remove the bass box speaker to remove bass box and led the blooming great speaker [still connected to amp] on top of the amp and it blew fuse.:pinch:

 

Removed speaker completely and replaced the 10 amp fuse 5 times :pinch: anybody know why??

 

The same fuse covers the clock and interior light, would the magnetic part of the speaker damage the amp and ultimately cause the fuse to keep blowing!!

 

Dave:confused1::no:

You have earthed the speaker through the casing of the amp (short circuit). Has the Amp got a fuse?

process of elimination disconect power supply from amp first to see if yu have short ,

You have earthed the speaker through the casing of the amp (short circuit). Has the Amp got a fuse?

 

Yes mate and still ok never blew that:blush:

As above then really.

Disconnect power supply from battery

Remove speaker connections and Amp aux cables.

Leave only the earth connectetd to the amp.

Re-connect power supply.......does the amp come on???

 

If so, connect aux cables, then the speaker.

Just another thought, where are you drawing you Amplifier's power from. Is it a seperate cable off the battery?

As above then really.

Disconnect power supply from battery

Remove speaker connections and Amp aux cables.

Leave only the earth connectetd to the amp.

Re-connect power supply.......does the amp come on???

 

If so, connect aux cables, then the speaker.

 

Thanks for that.....will try that tomorrow! had a real tits full of this car, this last couple of days, need to walk away take a deep breath and start fresh:mad2:

 

Stupid thing is thought getting the rear fogs would be easy and a break from my engine probs, how wrong i was:taz:

Just another thought, where are you drawing you Amplifier's power from. Is it a seperate cable off the battery?

 

yep with a flipping great fuse! and that is ok

I'm with you on that, nothing is ever simple, especially electric's. As you say, deep breath and have another go.

Not sure what's happening here. The power is coming straight form the battery witha massive gold plated fuse in the engine bay.

 

You also have seperate fuses for the cap and AMP on the left size of the boot. So it should not effect anythingin the rear. The only piece of ise that is not standalone is the head unit. I can only imagine that the blue cable (i.e. the cable that sends the signal to the amp and back to the stereo is shorting out somewhere).

 

Also check the earthing strap on the amp. This should earth out to the boot area to the side of the fibre glass housing.

Not sure what's happening here. The power is coming straight form the battery witha massive gold plated fuse in the engine bay.

 

You also have seperate fuses for the cap and AMP on the left size of the boot. So it should not effect anythingin the rear. The only piece of ise that is not standalone is the head unit. I can only imagine that the blue cable (i.e. the cable that sends the signal to the amp and back to the stereo is shorting out somewhere).

 

Also check the earthing strap on the amp. This should earth out to the boot area to the side of the fibre glass housing.

 

Thanks for the info Stu:wink:

This is still happening:angry:

 

Disconnected amps and tried to fit new fuse, as soon as i press the fuse into the fuse box it blows:angry:

 

The fuse is for "room lamp" "auto door lock" any other thoughts guys??

Sounds like the live is shorting on the bodywork. Take the live lead completely out the car and inspect it, money on you will find a hole in the insulation somewhere.

Sounds like the live is shorting on the bodywork. Take the live lead completely out the car and inspect it, money on you will find a hole in the insulation somewhere.

 

Well just disconnected the main power supply to the ice system big bugger to, and still blew fuse................................i am now out of fuses 12 in all i have tried, threw process of elimination:cursing:

 

I did a search and plenty of members have had the same problem, but no one posted the net result of there ongoing situation :confused1::confused1:

pull your head unit and unplug it try again with fuse is possible that the live for the light dimmer has been connected by mistake not the amp feed,

so instead of powering amp is over powering the light fuse and blowing it seen it done before in a toyota lucida hope this helps

Well just disconnected the main power supply to the ice system big bugger to, and still blew fuse................................i am now out of fuses 12 in all i have tried, threw process of elimination:cursing:

 

I did a search and plenty of members have had the same problem, but no one posted the net result of there ongoing situation :confused1::confused1:

 

Remember there is also a live that comes from the head unit to the amp, could be that live earthing out. Only way is to take it out and inspect. ;)

Are you sure it's related to the ICE system? It could have just been a coinsidence.

 

You need to see what's going through that fuse first to find the issue.

 

Take that fuse out and turn the ignition on. Try all the electrical component and make a list of what's not working.

 

If I remember correctly the cigarette lighter, interior lamp and folding mirros are on the same fuse. Check the standard items on the car first. Rear wiper, rear squirter (or whatever it's called), folding mirrors, electric mirrors etc.. Next check the additional compnents. i.e. stereo, boost controller, guages, fog light etc.

 

My guess is that an additional power source has been wired into the fuse and the amp now exceeds what the fuse can take. However saying this you don;t want to just put a bigger fuse in as this will cause issues. You need to find the cause by finding what doesn't work and then disconnect the additional (i.e. aftermarket) electrics.

 

The problem you may have is that something requiring 25amp has been wired into a 10amp fuse slot. This is an issue beause it means it needs a 25amp fuse but then the existing power that was rated at 10amp are left in a situation where if they have an issue they could cause a fire due to the safty line (i.e. fuse) no blowing when it should.

 

In Summary.

 

Unplug the fuse.

Check the standard components than no longer function.

Check the aftermarket components that no longer function.

Chase back the power wire to all the aftermarket components and disconnect.

Test fuse again with just standard components.

If all is ok you need to assess what after market components you have and think about either putting an inline fuse in between it and the fusebox (must be smaller than the fuse in the box) and maybe also consider splitting them off into different power sources if you have more than one aftermarket component that isn't working.

 

Give me a call if you like it's probably easier to have this in writing but then hear it in person to avoid confusion.

Are you sure it's related to the ICE system? It could have just been a coinsidence.

 

You need to see what's going through that fuse first to find the issue.

 

Take that fuse out and turn the ignition on. Try all the electrical component and make a list of what's not working.

 

If I remember correctly the cigarette lighter, interior lamp and folding mirros are on the same fuse. Check the standard items on the car first. Rear wiper, rear squirter (or whatever it's called), folding mirrors, electric mirrors etc.. Next check the additional compnents. i.e. stereo, boost controller, guages, fog light etc.

 

My guess is that an additional power source has been wired into the fuse and the amp now exceeds what the fuse can take. However saying this you don;t want to just put a bigger fuse in as this will cause issues. You need to find the cause by finding what doesn't work and then disconnect the additional (i.e. aftermarket) electrics.

 

The problem you may have is that something requiring 25amp has been wired into a 10amp fuse slot. This is an issue beause it means it needs a 25amp fuse but then the existing power that was rated at 10amp are left in a situation where if they have an issue they could cause a fire due to the safty line (i.e. fuse) no blowing when it should.

 

In Summary.

 

Unplug the fuse.

Check the standard components than no longer function.

Check the aftermarket components that no longer function.

Chase back the power wire to all the aftermarket components and disconnect.

Test fuse again with just standard components.

If all is ok you need to assess what after market components you have and think about either putting an inline fuse in between it and the fusebox (must be smaller than the fuse in the box) and maybe also consider splitting them off into different power sources if you have more than one aftermarket component that isn't working.

 

Give me a call if you like it's probably easier to have this in writing but then hear it in person to avoid confusion.

 

Stu thanks again for your help.

 

I still think it only happened when i pulled the speaker out of the box to get to screws to remove it. [had no problems previously]

 

There was a little smoke from underneath the speaker, [not from speaker assumed it was where the wires were trapped under the speaker]and then all went dead!!

 

The only things not working are interior light stereo aerial stuck up [to do with radio i guess] and centre console clock.

 

Rear was/wipe works folding mirrors never worked.

 

When i try to fit a fuse i can hear something in the door power up just before the fuse blows!!

Just for reference.

I have been helping a mate with his Celica electronics recently. He has so much aftermarket stuff we needed to get an additional fuse box and wire everything through that. i.e. take a feed from the battery get power to the box and earth it out. Then connect up each individual item to a loom and plug.

 

You're not in this situation as you probably have about 20% of what he has in terms of non standard electronics. Either way Electronis can be a bitch but it is relatively simple whan you take a step back and think about it.

Just for reference.

I have been helping a mate with his Celica electronics recently. He has so much aftermarket stuff we needed to get an additional fuse box and wire everything through that. i.e. take a feed from the battery get power to the box and earth it out. Then connect up each individual item to a loom and plug.

 

You're not in this situation as you probably have about 20% of what he has in terms of non standard electronics. Either way Electronis can be a bitch but it is relatively simple whan you take a step back and think about it.

 

By doing what i done with the speaker does it make sense though....would this cause the problem i have? i cannot see it myself, but all ok before this happened!

 

May have to call in an expert because this is above me, i can methodically disconnect every thing one by one but wouldn't no where to start if i found the fault to rectify it:confused1:

 

Happy days......i might go back to looking at the blowing fault i still have may be easier:whistling: at least i know how to remove the engine etc and its onl nuts and bolts!

So everything non standard still worked when you removed the fuse?

 

And that's the only fuse gone (checked with multi meter on resistance?)

So everything non standard still worked when you removed the fuse?

 

And that's the only fuse gone (checked with multi meter on resistance?)

 

No...... 10 amp fuse blown, this stops clock radio interior light working, apart from folding mirrors they never have worked every thing else is ok! no other fuse has gone!! [apart from 2 other 10 amps i removed to try:lol:]

 

The neons also do not work in the boot build but i guess this is connected threw radio!!

 

One thing i just remembered i noticed and god i hope this helps....is the light on the dash that comes on when a door is open is lite very faintly, and when i open the door it comes on brighter as per normal!!

AH that may be a clue there. If the light is on constantly but dim, it's managing to earth itself a little make the circuit complete. It's jogged my memory also. The rear neons are wired into what used to be the boot light.

 

i.e. when you open the boot the neons will come on, when you close it they should go off. This gets us back to the speaker you removed with the box. Check / disconnect the wires to the neons where they join the boot light wires. you may have a plastic sleve that has come off the bullet connector and earthing itself out. Then if you push a fuse in while the boot is open "BANG".

 

Disconnect the neons, trace the wire back and insulate the connections, then try the fuse again (with boot lid shut).

Just remembered... The whole rear of the car is dynomatted. Is this stuff conductive ?. I think it may be, so any exposed wires / connector are going to have an easy job finding earth.

Did you check to see if the remote wire (usually a thin blue cable) that runs from the head is isolated and not touching anything? as this cable carries a positive current from the batt.

 

Also chances are aswell you should be using at least a 20amp fuse for a amp powering a sub as i assum your running some decent power

AH that may be a clue there. If the light is on constantly but dim, it's managing to earth itself a little make the circuit complete. It's jogged my memory also. The rear neons are wired into what used to be the boot light.

 

i.e. when you open the boot the neons will come on, when you close it they should go off. This gets us back to the speaker you removed with the box. Check / disconnect the wires to the neons where they join the boot light wires. you may have a plastic sleve that has come off the bullet connector and earthing itself out. Then if you push a fuse in while the boot is open "BANG".

 

Disconnect the neons, trace the wire back and insulate the connections, then try the fuse again (with boot lid shut).

 

Stu, since i have had the car neons are lite all the time i thought whenever stereo on !