I need to remove a radiator so I can have the wall plastered, whats the best way of doing this as it will be off a while and I need the heating back on in the rest of the house.

 

I have put a couple of photo's up with ref to the ends.

 

 

Cheers Paul

its been a while since i done any plumbing but will give it a go

 

do you have a combi boiler???

its been a while since i done any plumbing but will give it a go

 

do you have a combi boiler???

 

Does a combi give constant hot water?

Edited March 4, 201015 yr by Bigman

yes, but so does a water heater, how many pipes go into the bottom of your boiler, id there any other tanks or cylinders anywhere???

1 small copper pipe into the bottom of it and 2 larger ones out the top, the bottom one is cold, both top ones hot.

 

There is a cylinder upstairs mate.

shut the rad valves off both sides then undo the nut going into the rad to let out the water have a tub underneath or your thermostatic valve looks like it has a drain so drain the water from there. this will drain the rad but not your system then when you need to fill it again put it back together and open the vales and bleed but make sure you find out if you have a sealed system or open vented system

but won't he need the cap for the thermastatic rad valve as it will open up slightly when cold? I've had that issue in the past.

How do i find out if its a sealed system or open vented system and why?

I need to remove a radiator so I can have the wall plastered, whats the best way of doing this as it will be off a while and I need the heating back on in the rest of the house.

 

I have put a couple of photo's up with ref to the ends.

 

 

Cheers Paul

 

Easy job mate, the first pic is the lockshield, take cap off and inside is a 5 or 6mm allen key, turn fully clockwise to close it down.

next pic is of the try, turn to cold or off and this will also close down.

On the rad side of the trv, is a drain cock. put a length of garden hose on it, with rad valves off, undo the screwdriver bit in drain cock and the water will come out. to speed it up undo the bleed valve on the rad intil you can here air, once empty rad can be removed.

 

To refit is a reversal of this, but make sure bleed valve and drain cock are closed. I will pm you number if you any more help.

Stu

If It's only an in and out connection doesn't that suggest that the break in circuit will stop the rest of the system working ?

 

Shouldn't there be a main circuit with the radiators feeding of the primary and out th to the return ?

If It's only an in and out connection doesn't that suggest that the break in circuit will stop the rest of the system working ?

 

Shouldn't there be a main circuit with the radiators feeding off the primary and out to the return ?

 

I don't think you can tell from the photo, the other connections could be further back... anyway there does seem to be other pipes coming off it.

 

After taking the rad out I would most definitely cap off the open end of the valves or run some hep or eayfit plastic pipe between them just in case they leak (that would also solve the problem if removing the rad does stop the flow, but I can't see someone installing it like that).

 

If you've got a header tank in the loft the system will be gravity fed and so not a high pressure but a newer system fed from the mains will be running at 1 bar (at least) and the valves may just not be good enough to stop any leaks.

 

good luck.

it wont stop the circuit it no differance then the TRV turning its self off. if the valves do leak buy 2 15mm comperssion stop ends and screw the male part of the into each rad valve