hi, im currently fitting a tailgate skin, just got it bonded to the car and although i thought i new what filler i was going to use, im now having second thoughts.

i was going to use U-POL easy one http://www.u-pol.com/product-cat/89/easy-one%C2%AE-super-easy-sanding-lightweight-body-filler.htm

but im worried it will crack when the tailgate flexes

any comments or sugestions greatly apreciated

cheers

si

i have used the metal based fillers before to good effect.

 

to be honest any filler will shrink/crack over time

You need to use Fibreglass filler (P40) first to blend and join the seam, then Body filler for final finish and smoothing.

nice one, will the UPOL easy one be ok for smoothing then?

nice one, will the UPOL easy one be ok for smoothing then?

 

Upol easy sand can be a bit porous , it,s ok to use as a build up filler but i would highly recommend Dolphin Glaze for your final finishing filler , it,s a thick liquid style filler that is very smooth to rub down and being nearly liquid it doesn,t suffer from pinholes , great for getting a super smooth repair .

IIRC is also made by Upol but i,ll have a look tomorrow at work . HTH

Cheers mate, what are the chances of it cracking with the flex of the tailgate? I've used tiger seal to bond it using a few screws to hold it down, what are the chances of skin pulling away from the tailgate over time and will the tiger seal soften when it's warm in summer?

I know these questions sound a bit thick lol but just want my mind putting at ease.

Cheers mate, what are the chances of it cracking with the flex of the tailgate? I've used tiger seal to bond it using a few screws to hold it down, what are the chances of skin pulling away from the tailgate over time and will the tiger seal soften when it's warm in summer?

I know these questions sound a bit thick lol but just want my mind putting at ease.

 

Tigerseal and screws is perfect,it wont soften..just key the paint around the edges well,scuff it up good and give it a skim of p40 type fibreglass filler.Make sure its well into any gaps around it,then rub it down and give it a skim of your Upol filler and as mentioned earlier dolphin glaze or any final smoothng filler to finnish off and remove pin holes/sanding scratches..if t needs that.

Flat down and prime.

Tigerseal and screws is perfect,it wont soften..just key the paint around the edges well,scuff it up good and give it a skim of p40 type fibreglass filler.Make sure its well into any gaps around it,then rub it down and give it a skim of your Upol filler and as mentioned earlier dolphin glaze or any final smoothng filler to finnish off and remove pin holes/sanding scratches..if t needs that.

Flat down and prime.

 

Screws or rivets should not be left in place just used to hold n the correct position until tiger seal has cured , if you leave them in in countersunk holes and fill over the heads it will eventually crack around these , like most fibreglass parts they can settle after a while especially it they get too hot in the sun but as for cracking as long as you,ve keyed everything properly you shouldn,t have a problem .

BTW Dolphin Glaze is made by UPOL . HTH

Screws or rivets should not be left in place just used to hold n the correct position until tiger seal has cured , if you leave them in in countersunk holes and fill over the heads it will eventually crack around these , like most fibreglass parts they can settle after a while especially it they get too hot in the sun but as for cracking as long as you,ve keyed everything properly you shouldn,t have a problem .

BTW Dolphin Glaze is made by UPOL . HTH

 

My bad... I missunderstood,I thought the screws were used in factorymade holes.(i never fitted one of these skins,so i dont know exactly if they have holes premade underneath like a bootspoiler)

No,dont filler over screws or rivets,it can possibly create all sorts of 'nastys' down the line.Sometimes when its custom bodywork (wide arches etc)and unavoidable we use stainless screws and only when its buried deep.Alloy pop rivets corrode and steel screws rust eventually and bubble the filler.Not good if it does,especially on a custom paint finish ;)

Cheers guys realy apreciate the advice, any ideas on roundabout quantities I will need of each filler.

...also, does the dolphin glaze go straight over the P40 or do I need to put some filler over the P40 first?

Cheers

...also, does the dolphin glaze go straight over the P40 or do I need to put some filler over the P40 first?

Cheers

 

Just a small tub of each will do that mate,unless your going to be doing more bodywork..there again,theres not much in them small tins!We bulk buy every couple of month,they come in gallon tubs,at around £12 each trade,prob around £25 retail.Put a skim of bodyfiller over the p40 (btw,p40 is a brand name used by Isopon,who maufacture it,but there are loads of other fibreglass fillers, Upol,Tetrosyl etc,people just say 'p40' for fibreglass filler,same as people say 'hoover' for a vacuum cleaner)

Back to your question,if you need to use the dolphin glaze,only use a thin smear over the bodyfiller,not over the fibreglass filler,its very watery and only designed for final smoothing to fill imperfections,dont rely on that to give shape to your job.If you get the filler well smoothed using a flat block,you may not need it.Take your time when you filler it up,long swipes along the edge,try to smooth pinholes as you go,pin holes get air/fillerdust trapped so when you apply another coat of filler thats what can give a poor end finish.:no: Hope that helps,good luck mate!

Thanks for the great advice, just one more question(for now :-) ) which type of primer should I use

thanks again.

The top trick for this is to prepare the surfaces and then bond it using windscreen adhesive. Then fiberglass and fill as normal!

Thanks for the great advice, just one more question(for now :-) ) which type of primer should I use

thanks again.

 

Acrylic primer in a spray can will be what you need.

Will acrylic primer be ok even if a bodyshop are doing the respray? As i thought most bodyshops used 2k paints. Or are they both compatible with each other?

That will react. and react badly. tbh i would let the body shop do the final prep etc

I thought so, yeah I think I might do, thanks again for everyones advice.

That will react. and react badly. tbh i would let the body shop do the final prep etc

 

No,it wont.Acrylic primer is all you need,compatable with 2pack,cellulose and waterbased.I have been running my own bodyshop for 14years and been spraying for nearly 20years so I do know what Im on about...

That's good then, a bit more money saved on the bodyshop fees.

cheers mate your advice has been invaluable.

Just out of interest what's etch primer?(I know what etching is cos I am actualy an etcher) and when would I use it?

Thanks yet again.

That's good then, a bit more money saved on the bodyshop fees.

cheers mate your advice has been invaluable.

Just out of interest what's etch primer?(I know what etching is cos I am actualy an etcher) and when would I use it?

Thanks yet again.

 

No probs mate,glad to help

(Acrylic primer has a nice build up over celly spray cans these days,it has more solids in the paint itself,if you remember the colour touch-up spray from years ago,they were very watery,whereas todays colour touch up cans are acrylic and the paint goes on much easier with good coverage)

Etch primer is basicaly primer that etches into the metal,rather than surface primer we usualy use,you only need that for bare steel(acid etch primer,similar to the black primer found on new steel panels when you buy them,they use it over the usual grey primer as it holds the rust at bay for longer)Great stuff for bare steel as the initial coat, before applying regular primer but pricey and pointless on somthing thats got paint/filler on it already.

Do you etch glass by any chance?Is it engraving or sandblast you use?I would like to put a logo in my rear quarter windows at some point,I think Iv seen them use acid type stuff on glass before for etching ?

Great stuff, ok so I might aswell ask another quessie while I'm at it lol

say I fill a dent, does the whole panel need priming or just the filled area? The cars gonna be resprayed same colour (Metallic grey) by the way.

Unfortunatley we only etch metals(using acid(ferric chloride) we make plaques and nameplates.

Alot of etched logos you see on glass these days like on pub windows and shops are actualy just vinyl coverings/labels/stickers used to give the effect of etching. So might be worth giving one of the vinyl graffic companys a call.

Great stuff, ok so I might aswell ask another quessie while I'm at it lol

say I fill a dent, does the whole panel need priming or just the filled area? The cars gonna be resprayed same colour (Metallic grey) by the way.

Unfortunatley we only etch metals(using acid(ferric chloride) we make plaques and nameplates.

Alot of etched logos you see on glass these days like on pub windows and shops are actualy just vinyl coverings/labels/stickers used to give the effect of etching. So might be worth giving one of the vinyl graffic companys a call.

 

Ah I see,so could you etch a custom logo into stainless steel door sills if made some?

Yes,as long as the paint is sound on the rest of the panel,its ok to spot prime,(some colours dont work so well,some reds and yellows for example but dark colours are ok),but before you apply any primer make sure you scotchbrite or rub down 1000/1200grit-ish on the area past where the primer will stop,just to dull the paint and key it,if that makes sense?In otherwords,never paint/prime onto unkeyed paintwork.That way when your painter preps the panel,he wont have to rub back down,possibly disturbing the filler repair work you had done already.

Yeah we can do stuff like that.